Like any large public space in Karachi, we have to go through metal detectors and purse searches before entering Port Grand near Kemari harbor, a new private enterprise designed to offer food and entertainment to middle and upper class families. The metal entry gates are far from the docks with restaurants and shops—so there’s minimal human life loss in the event that some extremists decide to ram an exploding car into the entry gate.

For a private enterprise, the owners have done a fairly good job of maintaining the original beauty of the little harbor. An old banyon tree with roots hanging low like beards has been lit up, and the entrance courtyard is breezy and wide. Along the dock are high-priced restaurants and shops, and since we are now in the month of ramzaan, the speakers play religious songs. We sit atop the roof of an Italian restaurant and breathe a sigh of relief when the music switches to qawalli.