My writer friend Ilona Yusuf sneaks me into a café in Islamabad.

They may throw us out, she says. But let’s try anyway.

She shares the story of how she and her son tried to visit the café during the first few days of Ramzan earlier this month, but they weren’t allowed up the stairs where non-Pakistanis were being served beverages and food. I’ve been spending time with friends and family who have little desire to dine anywhere but at residential homes, so the reminder of General Zia’s Ramzan Ordinance is jarring.

This morning, though, Ilona and I are permitted inside, and we spend our morning imbibing coffee and catching up.